Tullia – Free Sweater Pattern

Tullia PDFTulliaFinished2

While this sweater gave me some trouble, and whoever knits it up will most likely need to stabilize the shoulders and arm holes, I figured I’d release the pattern anyway.  I kept a chart of the numbers and was writing up the pattern as I knit it up so it was pretty much ready to go.  It’s not as rigorously edited as the other patterns, but if you want to try out a bottom-up set-in sleeve sweater, you can.

You can click the PDF link above or here’s the spill:

TULLIA

Skill Level- Intermediate.  Sweater is worked flat, sleeves are worked in the round then joined to the body at underarm.

Finished Measurements (Chest) in inches–

32 (35, 38, 41, 44, 47)

Materials- 867 (961, 1047, 1127, 1228, 1287) yds FibraNatura Heaven or other yarn that meets gauge.

Gauge- 4.25 stitches per inch and 6.15 rows per inch in pattern on size 5 -7 needles

Directions:

TulliaChartNote:  In this sweater, it is important that you can recognize how each yarn over is paired together with a k2tog or SSK in the stitch pattern to keep stitch counts even throughout the fabric.  When working a decrease in the sleeve or body that eats into the stitch pattern in a way that a yarn over is omitted, you must omit the corresponding k2tog or SSK in order to keep proper sweater shaping.  Conversely, if you work a decrease in the sleeve or body that eats into the stitch pattern in a way that a k2tog or SSK is omitted, you must omit the corresponding yarn over.  If not, you may end up with strange sweater shaping. 

BODY

The body is worked flat to the arm pitsTulliaBegs2

CO 135 (147, 161, 169, 183, 191) sts.  Work in garter stitch for 6 rows (knit across every row).

Set Up:  k 4 (3, 4, 7, 7, 4), pm, begin Chart A and work in pattern for 31 (33, 36, 37, 41, 42) sts, pm to mark center side, continue working in pattern for 69 (75, 83, 87, 93, 97) sts, pm to mark center side, continue working in pattern until 4 (3, 4, 7, 7, 4) sts remain, pm, k to end of needle.  Turn work.

Even Row (WS):  p 4 (3, 4, 7, 7, 4), sm, work pattern (slipping side center markers) until last marker, sm, p to end of needle.  Turn work.

Even Row (RS):  k 4 (3, 4, 7, 7, 4), sm, work pattern (slipping side center markers) until last marker, sm, k to end of needle.  Turn work.

Repeat these 2 rows until you have completed 4 (4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5) repeats of the pattern or 80 (90, 90, 90, 90, 90) rows from garter stitch edge.

Set Up for Join Round:  On next row work in pattern until 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5) sts before first side center marker.  Slip next 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10) sts onto waste yarn.  Break yarn leaving 18-inch tail to be used to graft underarm seam.

Note:  You may add or subtract rows for length, but it will mean that when you join the arms, the arms and body will not be on the row in Chart A.  If you add or subtract rows, take note of where you are in the stitch pattern so you can continue when the arms are added.

SLEEVES
Make two.  Sleeves are worked in the round to the arm pits and have subtle bell shaping.TulliaJoin2

CO 51 (53, 57, 61, 67, 67) and join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Knit in garter stitch for 6 rounds.  (knit one round, purl one round)

Set Up Round:  k 4 (5, 7, 9, 5, 5), pm, begin Chart A and repeat pattern 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) total times across 43 (43, 43, 43, 57, 57) sts, pm, k 4 (5, 7, 9, 5, 5)

Even Round:  k to marker, sm, work in established pattern until next marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Work even round 8 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6) more times

SLEEVE SHAPING

Decrease Round: k2tog, k to marker, sm, work in established pattern until next marker, sm, k until 2 sts remain, SSK.

Work Even Round 9 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7) times.

Work one decrease round followed by 9 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7) even rounds.  Repeat these 10 (8, 8, 8, 8, 8) rounds 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) more times.  45 (45, 49, 53, 59, 20) sts.

Work even round for 29 (37, 37, 37, 37, 37) rounds.

Increase Round:  k1, m1, k to marker, sm, work in established pattern until next marker, sm, k until 1 st remains, m1, k1.

Even Round:  k to marker, sm, work in established pattern until next marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Work even round 8 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6) more times.

Work an increase round.

Work an even round 9 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7) times followed by an increase round.  Repeat these 10 (8, 8, 8, 8, 8) rounds 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) more times.

Work even round 10 (8, 8, 8, 8, 8) times,   51 (53, 57, 61, 67, 67) sts.  Slip next 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 8) sts onto waste yarn.  Break yarn leaving 18-inch tail to be used to graft underarm seam.   

NECK SHAPING

Neck Shaping:  At the same time you are working the sleeve and body decreases, you will be working the neck decreases as follows:

Using the Yoke Set Up Row as Row 1, start neck shaping at Row 9 (5, 5, 5, 3, 5) by working a decrease at each side of the sweater and then again every 4th row 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8) more times.  The first decrease uses the first three sts as follows:  k1, k2tog.  The second decrease uses the last three sts as follows:  SSK, k1.

YOKE
You will join the sleeves to the body and work as one piece.TulliaArmSeam2

Note:  You should be on row 1 (11, 11, 11, 11, 11) of Chart A unless you have lengthened or shortened the sleeves or body from pattern. You will begin Neck Shaping at the same time you begin shaping the sleeve.

Set Up (RS& Row 1):  With working yarn from body of the sweater, pm for sleeve seam, work sleeve sts in pattern, pm for sleeve seam, work body sts in pattern until 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5) sts before first side center marker.  Slip next 4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10) sts onto waste yarn, pm for sleeve seam, work sleeve sts in pattern, pm for sleeve seam, work in pattern across body until last marker, k to end of needle.  Turn work.  221 (229, 251, 259, 285, 285) sts.

ARMHOLE SHAPINGTulliaArmSeam

Decrease Row (WS):  p to marker, sm, work in pattern until 3 sts before marker, SSP tbl, k1, sm, p2tog, k in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSP tbl, sm, k1, p2tog, k in pattern until 3 sts before next marker, SSP tbl, k1, sm, p2tog, k in pattern until 2 sts before next marker, SSP tbl, sm, k1, p2tog, k in pattern until next marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Decrease Row (RS):   p to marker, sm, work in pattern until 3 sts before marker, k2tog tbl, k1, sm, SSK, k in pattern until 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, SSK, k in pattern until 3 sts before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, SSK, k in pattern until 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, sm, k1, SSK, k in pattern until next marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Repeat these 2 rows 1 (2, 3, 4, 4, 5) more times.

SLEEVE CAP SHAPING

Even Row (WS):  Work in established pattern across needle, slipping markers as you encounter them, until end of needle.  Turn work.

Decrease Row Sleeve Only (RS): p to marker, sm, work in pattern until 3 sts before marker, k2tog tbl, k1, sm, SSK, k in pattern until 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, SSK, work in pattern until 3 sts before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, SSK, k in pattern until 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, sm, k1, SSK, work in pattern until next marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 (4, 5, 4, 5, 7) more times.

Decrease Row- Sleeve Only (WS):  p to marker, sm, work in pattern until mext marker, sm, p2tog, k in pattern until 2 sts before marker, SSP tbl, sm, k in pattern until next marker, sm, p2tog, k in pattern until 2 sts before next marker, SSP tbl, sm, k in pattern until next last marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Decrease Row- Sleeve Only (RS):   p to marker, sm, work in pattern until next marker, sm, SSK, k in pattern until 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k in pattern until next marker, sm, SSK, work in pattern until 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, sm, work in pattern until last marker, sm, k to end of needle.

Repeat these 2 rows 5 (4, 3, 4, 3, 1) more times.

Shoulder Cap Bind Off:  On the next row (WS),  Work across front in pattern, bind off shoulder sts, work across back in pattern, bind off shoulder sts, work across front in pattern.  Move each front and back to its own needle as they will be worked separately.

SHOULDER SHAPING

Each front and the back are worked independently before being joined with a 3 needle bindoff.  The shoulder cap is then sewn to them.

Right Front:  (Starting on RS)- Work 5 rows in pattern (remember to continue neck shaping).

(Starting on WS) – Work in pattern until 4 sts remain, w&t.  (RS)- Work in pattern back to end of needle.

(WS)- Work in pattern until 4 sts remain until last wrapped st.  w&t.  (RS)- Work in pattern to end of needle.

Repeat previous 2 rows until there less than 4 sts remain.

(WS)- P across needle, picking up wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches.

Left Front:  (Starting on WS)- Work 5 rows in pattern (remember to continue neck shaping).

(Starting on RS) – Work in pattern until 4 sts remain, w&t.  (RS)- Work in pattern back to end of needle.

(RS)- Work in pattern until 4 sts remain until last wrapped st.  w&t.  (WS)- Work in pattern to end of needle.

Repeat previous 2 rows until there less than 4 sts remain.

(RS)- K across needle, picking up wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches.

Back:  (Starting on RS) – Work 4 rows in pattern.

(Starting on RS) – Work in pattern until 4 sts remain, w&t.  (WS)- work in pattern until 4 sts remain, w&t.

(RS)- Work in pattern until 4 sts remain until last wrapped st, w&t.  (WS) – work in pattern until 4 sts remain until last wrapped st, w&t.

Repeat previous 2 rows until you cannot wrap any more sts without eating into the 58 (60, 62, 62, 64, 64) center shoulder sts.

(RS)- k across to end, picking up wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches.  (WS) – p across to end, picking up wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches.

Shoulder Seam:

Using the three-needle bind off, bind off the right front with the right back shoulder sts.  Using the three-needle bind off, bind off the left front with the left back shoulder sts.

Should Cap:

Using an invisible stitch, sew the shoulder cap to the shoulder.

BUTTON BAND AND COLLAR

Pick up 3 of every 4 sts up the left front, every sts around the back neck (placing a marker to note the center back), and 3 of every 4 sts down the right front.

Working in garter stitch, k 9 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12) sts past the center back, w&t,

K back past the center back 9 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12) sts, w&t

K back, picking up the wrap and knitting together with its respective st, k1 w&t.

Repeat this row until you have reached the point where neck shaping starts on both sides.

K back, picking up the wrap and knitting together with its respective st, k until end.

K back, picking up the wrap and knitting together with its respective st, k until end.

Mark where you want your buttons and buttonholes.  K across, working button holes where and as you desire.  K across 2 more rows and then bind off loosely.

Weave in ends and block.TulliaFinished

10 thoughts on “Tullia – Free Sweater Pattern

  1. A beautiful job on the sweater, and a beautiful job on the pattern write-up! I really hope you do choose to get a lot of wear out of it. A question: In reading through the pattern it seems that you leave live stitches at the back of the neck which are then worked into the collar, unless my eyes missed a bind-off step. If so, do you think maybe binding off along the back, then picking up stitches for the collar, would provide the missing stability?

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    • You are right, the stitches are left live on the back of the neck. And, I think you are a genius. I’ll bet that binding off those stitches would solve the whole problem with the neck! Thank you so much for that suggestion! 🙂 I think you’ve solved a problem I seem to have with most of my sweaters!

      Like

    • Yes. I put a link to the pattern up on Ravelry. And, I’m so glad that I did! A fellow knitter gave me some more valuable advice. She said that silk has a reputation for sagging and bagging and the yarn I used is 50% silk. Her guess was that if this was knit up in 100% wool, I wouldn’t have the same issues with stretch.

      So, if I was to do this over, I would take Jeri Lea’s advice and bind off the neck stitches instead of keeping them live and then picking them up again for the collar. And then I would take marjob’s (from ravelry) advice and use a 100% wool yarn.

      I love knitters! So generous with information and assistance!

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